Both the Hairless Chinese Crested and Powderpuff need grooming. My Hairless dogs (medium and hairy) take a bath and are shaved every week, my powderpuffs every other week.
A powderpuff has a silky long coat which needs proper grooming. It needs gentle brushing at least twice a week. I also blowdry my powderpuffs whenever they had their bath.
All together I spent more time grooming my powderpuffs as I do my hairless.
Before a show it takes me 60-90 minutes to groom a powderpuff and app. 60 minutes to groom medium/hairy hairless.
STEP 1 - Clipper | STEP 2 - Wet shaving | STEP 3 - Bathing
In this part I will explain step by step how I groom my medium/hairy hairless Chinese Crested.
There are lots of misconseptions about grooming your Chinese Crested. They do not need to be covered in bodylotion every day, not all cresteds are sunburnt easily.
Further shaving is also something personal. I like to have a lot of crest with my girls and rather have too much then too little hair. There are also people who see it the other way around, and this is of course all fine.
This is what Lola looks like when she hasn't been shaved for 3 weeks. Lola is a "medium" hairless with only hair growth in a line on her back.The rest of her body has just soms "fluffy" hair. I also shave this just because it looks better.
I have a Ultron wireless tondeuse, specially for a small dog. The tondeuse has a narrow cutting-head. This is nescesary to make the curves on a small dog. This tondeuse costs about 65 euro.
It is very easy to use and I am really happy with it. It's a Ultron Precitrim Sx189 professional.
The important things you should consider buying a clipper is the narrow cutting-head and that it's wireless.
I always put Lola on kitchen-height. This works easier and is better for your back.
I always start with the tail. My preference is to shave off about 1 inch.
I also shave the sides.
Here you can see how much hair Lola has. It isn't much, just on top it is a little hairy. After I finish shaving the tail I start with her hind legs.
Be carefull not to shave of too much hair. Rather shave off to little then too much.
I shave from the hairborder towards her spine. Watch the knees of your dog because the joint is really close underneath the skin here.
Then I start shaving the spine. The part with most of the hair.
I take the tondeuse and go straight over the spine. If necessary I will go over more then once. I shave against the grain.
When that is finished I shave the sides. Again I shave against the grain from the lower part of her tummy towards her spine.
I do both sides.
Then the legs. Take great care in shaving the socks. Rather too little shaved off them too much. They say that shorter sox make the legs look longer, but I do not agree. I always leave the hair grow above the joint.
But this is really a matter of personal preference.
Make sure you put away the hairs of the crest when you get near to them with the tondeuse. It would be a shame when you accidentely cut them.
On this picture the tondeuse was "off" I just held it that way for the picture. If it was on I had made a big mistake... which is...
Too much pressure on the tondeuse, this causes rinkles. In this case I should stretch the skin by hand or adjust my pressure.
In the red circle are still some hairs left.
These hairs are just behind the shoulder-joint.
When I pull back the skin with my hand. As shown on the picture, I can easily shave the hairs which before were in a difficult position to shave.
This is easier for me and Lola and I reduce the chance of hurting her.
Now the hardest part, her head.
There are lots of curves and small parts on her head. Besides that her eyes and nose are really close to the tondeuse when you shave. Pay extra attention here.
Unfortunately I couldn't make any more pictures of shaving her head since I was all by myself that day...
I always pull her head up (nose in the air) and start in her neck and upperjaw.
Then I shave her underlips. I always stretch the mouth in order to be able to remove most hair. If something stays behind I leave it.
Her you see how I stretch her mouth. This way I can shave her lips and her cheeks. After that I finish with shaving on the brigde of her nose. I use several "stretch-technics" when I do her head to shave it the best I can. But this is the one I use most often.
Watch out for the eyes. You are working with an electrical shaving device and you should always make sure your dog is able to close his eyes. This is to prevent cutting in the eyes.
Lola after her shaving with her clipper!
STEP 1 - clipper | STEP 2 - Wet shaving | STEP 3 - Bathing
These are the products you need when you are going to wet-shave your Chinese Crested:
*Shavingcream for the sensitive skin.
*A sharp (preferably new) razor.
*Cup of warm water to keep your razor clean.
I shave Lola, my medium hairless Chinese Crested, every week. First with the clipper (tondeuse) and then with a razor. It is not rule, but I like grooming my dog and Lola has a really faboulus skin and I love to show it of...
Notice, Lola is a trained dog who has been shaved al her life. She is a perfect statue when I shave her. Is your dog not used to shaving then build it up slowly and do not immediately do what I show below!
I always shave her with a clipper before I wet-shave her. That way most of the hair is gone and makes wet shaving easier for me and my dog.
First I take a little shavingcream and start with the head and neck. I do this because this is the harderst part and Lola does not like it. When I should wait to do this at the end she wouldn't keep as still as in the beginning.
See how I keep away from her eyes with the shaving-cream.
I start with her neck. I shave for bottom to top, against the grain.
Make sure your razor stays clean by putting it in your warm water bowl every time. If there are hairs stuck in the razor there is a big chance you might cut your dog. So keep it clean.
Unfortunately I was alone when I made al these pictures. Therefor ther are not many of me shaving her head.
After I shaved her neck I start with her cheeks and shave towards the nose. I make sure to stretch the mouth so I do not cut into her lips.
A razor with a movable head is real easy. After that I shave on top of her muzzle and again around her lips. Take your time!!
When I am done with her head I clean it with a wet towel and dry it gently.
Then I continue with her legs. The order differs from time to time. This time I start with her left front leg.
You take a little shavingcream and put it on the places you want to shave. I start at the bottom and go to the top. Start on the outside, and end with the inside. Make sure not to shave away too much hair.
Very important to know is that a dog can't bend the front legs sideways. If you shave the inside of the leg pull the leg forward. Hold the leg with on hand and shave with the other.
When that's done I start with the top of her back and her hindleg.
I put shaving-cream on the parts I want to shave. I also do the tail.
First shave the tail on the same height you did with the clipper.
Then from the tail I also shave a bit on top of the back. Be sure to shave the sides of the tail as well.
After that I shave her hindlegs. I shave the line I made with my shaving-cream, I start at the bottom again and end on the spine.
Be aware for the knee. It's bumpy and easy to cut. Be very carefull shaving that area.
After I finished the left leg I continue with the part where most of the hair is located, her spine.
I work from tail to crest. Try to do little strikes at the time.
Make sure to put the crest aside before you shave. It would be a shame to shave it accidentaly.
In the red circel is still some shaving-cream left. This is because her is a little "hole". Here I also shave from left to right to get rid of the hairs.
When I'm finished with her spine I start at her upperleg towards her spine. I continue this untill I am in the front.
(the direction of the red arrows)
I clean her body with the damp towel.
This is what Lola looks like on one side when I finshed shaving.
Now the other side and frontleg. I totally cover one side with shaving-cream and start at her right backleg.
I (again) shave her leg neatly on the line I have marked with my shaving-cream. Start at the bottem towards her spine.
Be carefull with the knee.
I shave towards her head, just next to her spine. (There were most hair grows)
This way I stretch her skin to reach all parts of her belly.You can see I make small strokes from her back to her head.
Lola after shaving with razor and cream.
STEP 1 - clipper | STEP 2 - Wet shaving | STEP 3 - Bathing
The products I use for washing and bathing my hairless. Vellus Clarifying Shampoo, Vellus Concentrated Shampoo, Vellus Conditioner, Vellus Satin Cream, Vellus Static Stabiliser .
Website Vellus Producten
I wash my Lola every week. She has a no-problem, really nice and soft skin.
Because Lola is so small I wash her in the sink. You always need an extendable sprayer because the
tap is not handy and will not get your dog wet and clean all over.
First I make her totally wet with warm water. Then I soap her completely with Vellus Clarifying Shampoo and rinse her down with nice warm water.
After that I wash her completely with diluted Vellus Shampoo Concentrate and rinse her down again and make sure al Shampoo is gone.
She is completely washed for the last time with Vellus Conditioner Concentrate.
Here you can see Lola all soaped up with conditioner. I leave the conditioner in for about 2 minutes. Make sure it will not get into your dog's eyes.
Rinse again very thorough with warm water. If a little conditioner is left on the dog that is no problem.
If she is done I immediately put her in a blanket and dry her up smoothly.
I always make sure that all my stuff is ready when I need it, so the hairdryer is ready to be used.
I only blowdry the hairs and stay away from her skin..
(See Picture were she is wrapped in a towel)
I never keep the blowdryer this close. It only did this to take this picture. I blowdry her hair at a distance of aproximately 30 cm (12 inch). I go with my hand through her hair to make it dry faster.
After this I use the Vellus Satin Cream, which you can use on her skin and hair, if you are carefull you can also use it on the head.
It gives her a perfect soft and smooth skin.I try to get something on every part of her head. Make sure you are carefull with the eyes.
It is a lovely cream for the face. Since it has just been saved down this is really nice for your Chinese Crested.
Lola after her bath! All done!!!
The back of Lola after her weekly bath.
She needs to lose some ounces :-)
It takes me half an hour to only wash her. If I shave her with the clipper and the razor before her bath it will take me at least 1,5 hours.
In this part I'll explain in steps how I groom my Powderpuff. The advantage of a powderpuff is that the hairs do not fall out every season as you would with a short-coated dog.
Of course broken and old hairs fall out, but you can hold your puff against your sweater without having to brush of all dogs hairs afterwards. A powderpuff is a "high maintenance" dog if you talk about grooming, as are all other long coated dogs.
I use a slickerbrush and a long pinbrush to brush them every other day (at least twice a week). I check them for mats and remove those with my hands and the slicker.
STEP 1 - Ears and Details | STEP 2 - Clipping the face | STEP 3 - Bathing
You'll need a good clipper with a small head. I shave the ears because it makes my dog more "spicier".
It is no obligation, although Powderpuff ears tend to drop under the weight of the hairs.
At first I make sure all hairs which need to stay are out of my way, so I do not shave them by accident.
With Candy I leave some hair at the undersidebase of the ear, some 2 inches and on the upperside of 1 inch.
After this I shave the inside of the ear. I make sure dat the parts of hair which I shave off, fall on the ground and not into the ear. You can put the thumb of your other hand over the hearcanal of your dog. (As you can see on the picture above) Because I do not want the ear to be completely "bold", I shave with the grain. This way I remove most hairs, but still some stay on the ear.
If you want the ears to be bold you should shave against the grain.
When I am done there, I start at the back. I leave a lot of hairs there. I start to shave from 0,5 inch above the "nick" in the ear. Below this "nick" I leave all hairs, also on the sides.
Here I also shave with the grain to keep it from getting too bold. Again make sure you get the hairs which do not need to be cut out of the way. If necessary you can make ponytails.
I keep the ears flat, it shaves easier and hairs won't fall into the ear this way. Here I shave against the grain in order to get sharp and straight edges.
Here you see Candy with her shaved ears, and unshaved muzzle....With a powderpuff you need to check the inside of the ears on hairs which should not grown there.
Further you want no hair underneath the feet of the paws so you have to cut it.
It is also more hygienic to cut away the hairs which surround the anus and the vulva. The teeth of your dog also need to be looked at weekly, and if possible be brushed
Inside the ear
The hairs growing inside the hearingcanal should be removed once a month. Best methode is to grab the hairs between your thumb and index-finger as close to the bottonm as possible. Pull them out with a fast short move.
Only remove the hairs INSIDE the canal, ears which grow on, but outside the canal can stay.
Here you can see the hairs more clearly.
Can you see the little hairs in the hearing canal? These need to be pulled out. By spreading the ear with one hand and pulling out the hairs with the other is most confortable.
To make sure feaces will not stick to the hairs of your powderpuff it is usefull to trim down the hairs in that area every now and then.
I do this with the clipper, but you can also use scisors.
If you use a clipper, you CANNOT touch the skin around the anus. So NEVER put the clipper to the skin around the anus but keep it on a short distance. If you hit the anus with the clipper, you can damage this mussle which will never heal again.
If you don't feel happy with the clipper, use a scisor.
I shave all hairs which are in front of the anus so the "way out" is cleared again.
As you can see there are many hairs growing on the vulva, this can cause bad smells and when a bitch is in heat, it is easier and more confortable if the hairs are removed.
Before I start I make sure all hairs which do not need to be shaven off are out of the way.
With one hand I bring the vulva a bit forward for better access and to avoid shaving off other hairs.
With the other hand I shave the hairs from top to bottom.I don't shave all the hairs off since this can be iritating for the bitch.
I do the same on the other side.
Again I don't press the clipper against the skin in order to avoid iritations.
Some dogs can't stand the feeling of a shaven vulve, then it is better to cut the hairs away with a scissor.
See here the result of a neatly groomed back.
STEP 1 - Ears and Details | STEP 2 - Clipping the face | STEP 3 - Bathing
For clipping the face and neck of the Powderpuff you'll need:
*A good clipper with a small head and
*A lot of patience :-)
Further on I'd like to say Candy is used to being shaved and sits still throughout the shaving. If your dog is not used to being shaved, take the time to slowly getting used to it.
Candy hasn't been shaved for 3 weeks.
I start at the horizontal line which goes from the ear to the eyecorner. I leave app. 3 cm of hair in front of the ear. I shave against the grain from under the ear to the eyecorner.
From the outer corner of her eye I shave underneath the eye to the inner corner. With my left hand I pull her cheek down to straighten the skin.
Always be very carefull if you shave near the eye, and make sure the dog is able to close it at any time.
Just below the eye there will always be some hairs left, these I shave off carefully with one the side ends of my clipper.
After that I start a little lower again app. 3cm from the ear, against the grain in the direction of her nose.
Take extra care when you shave off the whiskers as these hairs are harder and thicker than normal hair.
Since I always shave against the grain you need to hold your clipper in the opposite direction in which the hair grows. This way you shave the nasal brigde nice and smooth in a couple of strokes.
The corners of the eye also need special attention.
With my lefthand I pull the skin around her eye straight back. With the clipper I gently remove the hair at the corners of her eyes. I make sure I don't accidentally shave a piece of the crest.
I remove the hairs on her nasal brigde from the "stop" up to her nose. Again I shave against the grain.
Here you see me shaving Candy's lips. In order to get them shaved properly, tighten the lip by pulling the mouth in the direction of her ears. Then shave, along the lips, in the direction of the nose.
At the bottom lip I do the same. Pull the mouth thight with one hand and with the other one you shave the hairs against the grain.Watch out not to hit the teeth - insiccors.
Here you clearly see the red line I drew were I shave. Here I also leave 3cm of hair in front of the ear and shave in a horizontal movement to the outer corner of the eye.
Shave all the way to the end.
To shave the small hairs directly under the eye you use the side tip of the clipper.
Watch out for the eye!
Here you clearly see how I pull the mouth thight.
After this I shave the lips in the direction of the nose.
Than I shave a little bit lower,
and then again a bit lower.
You can better stay a little further from the ear than that you shave off too much. You can always shave more hair off later.
Once gone it will take a while before it's grown back again.
Here I pull the lower side of her mouth thight again to shave her lips nice and smooth. Watch out (again) for the teeth - inscissors...
Here I shave the details by pulling her mouth even thighter towards her ear.
You see the small patch of hair on her lower lip, this is the way to get rid of it.
At the end I also shave the front of her nose. You can best do this from the front and shave upwards.
Than I start her neck, which is shaved in a V-shape. As Candy has been shaved so many times, I shave 1 mm extra every time, resulting in a too big shaved V.
Personaly I would shave app. 2 or 3 vingers under her larynx (red dot). You can always go down further. The edges I already shave against the grain, obliquely upward.
In the bottom I make my V.
Here the left side.
And here the right side.
Further I shave the complete neck starting down and then going up. I do exactly the same on the other side.
To get the edges perfect I shave the edges one more time. I put him at odds on the hairs and go from the top to the bottom.
BE CAREFUL not to shave of hair that you would like to leave next to the V.
I also again shave the underside of her lowerjaw.
Here you have to pull the skin some to the left and right to get rid of all the hairs.
Candy with her shaved face and ears! And now we go and bathe!!!
STEP 1 - Ears and Details | STEP 2 - Clipping the face | STEP 3 - BATHING
Normally I bathe my powderpuffs at least once a month. It takes me about an hour. Powderpuffs need to be washed more because of their veal coat.
Most dogs are not frequently bathed, but this rule does not apply for the Chinese Crested. If you do not do this the powderpuff coat will get a dirty and break more easily.
During the washing of my powderpuff I use the following things:
The products I use are:
*Vellus Clarifying Shampoo Concentrate
*Vellus Show Shampoo Concentrate
*Vellus Conditioning Concentrate
*Vellus Satin Cream
*Vellus Static Stabiliser
Always close the door,because you do not want an all wet powderpuff running around the house!
Put on clothes which are allowed to get wet.
Before I start washing I remove all matts.
Usually I wash her in bath and sit with her because this is better for my back.
But for this photoshoot I sat outside the tub.
Make sure you really soak the coat with water.
Go through the hairs with your hands to make sure all gets really wet.
When wetting her head I keep one hand in front of her eyes and nose to prevent water going into her nose. I also keep het head in the air for the same reason.
I make sure she is really soaked.
Than I use the Vellus Clarifying Shampoo. I already diluted the concentrate with water (1:10). Work the shampoo thoroughly but gently through the coat.
Be very careful with the eyes, as you do not want shampoo getting into them. Massage the shampoo gently and make sure you have all of the hair covered in the shampoo-water mix.
Here you see me massaging the shampoo into the coat.
I leave it for half a minute and rinse it out.
Again I keep my hand in front of her eyes and nose to make sure no shampoo will get into her eyes or nose when I rinse her.
Also be extra carefull with the ears, never spray water straight into a dogs ear, as this can cause earinfections.
Rinse out the shampoo thoroughly. And of course don't forget to do the same on the belly.
Then I use the Vellus Shampoo Concentrate and start again at step 5.
When I thoroughfully rinsed out all shampoo, which is very important as you do not want to leave shampoo in the coat, I take the conditioner.
I use Vellus Conditioner Concentrate for all my dogs. I dilute it 1:16 in my specially made bottle.
I poor the conditioner and water substance through the coat.
I massage the conditioner into the coat. I make sure that I didn't forget a single spot. Especially the armpits and other easier matting areas I treat extra with conditioner.
The only place I do not use shampoo or conditioner on is the shaven part of her head (I do use it on the neck).
I leave it in for some minutes.
Then I rinse the conditioner out.
Again my hand in front of her eyes and nose. I do not rinse very thoroughfully, and I leave a little bit in.
This helps to prevent matts and keeps the coat nice and soft.
Then the bathing if finished and I remove the water by "wiping" it off. I push my hand from the spine downwards to her belly.
I start in the front I work my way back. Than I gently squeeze the hair under the belly to get rid of the water.
Last I wipe the water from the legs and paws. I move my closed hand from the top of the leg towards her paws.
Make sure never to turn a leg side ways. The joints of a dogs shoulder only allow the leg to go from back to front, not to the sides!!. NEVER pull the leg sideways!
Than we bring in the big towel. I try to make her as dry as possible without stirring up the coat. I start with the head and then the rest of her body.
Then comes the next and final step, the blowdrying!
Before I blowdry I use Vellus Satin Cream on the coat. I take a little and rub it into my hands, this I gently apply on the coat. I also helps against burns from the shaving.
This way I apply it onto her coat.
I start at the head.
To prevent buring you should keep a distance between blowdryer and skin of at least 25 cm (10").
I brush the wet coat and use the blowdryer at the same time, this way the coat will be dry sooner and get a big more volume.
Her front, brushing the hairs sideways to get it nice and dry.
Found a little matt...
I try to untangle it with my fingers and than keep on blowdrying.
Candy does not like her legs blowdried, so here I put the dryer on the table so I have one had to hold the leg and one to brush. When completely done the Vellus static Stabiliser is sprayed over the coat and....finished!
Candy after the shave, wash and blowdry!